With the same goal in mind as 10 Common Mistakes Made in Type Design, this article was created to raise awareness and educate new Photoshop users and designers,not to make fun of or mock the one’s who use the below techniques and practices.
Below is a list of 12 common mistakes, misuses and various ways new users abuse Photoshop. I have fell victim to a few of these myself when first starting out, so I hope this article helps educate designers and other individuals new to Photoshop. I encourage all of you to add your own mistakes or tips in the comment section below.
Improper extraction methods
Many new and unexperienced Photoshop users depend on the magic wand, quick select or lasso tool to extract backgrounds or objects in an image. Photoshop’s “easy” selection and extraction methods have come a long way, but it still doesn’t compare to the precision you get with the pen tool.
The pen tool can be quite tricky to new users, but once mastered you will wonder how you ever used any other method. Other great methods of quick masking or extraction can also be used. Just don’t use the eraser tool!
Adding a slight feather to your extractions helps improve the appearance of your images.
Setting body copy
Photoshop can be used to create fantastic text effects, but that doesn’t mean you should use it for large areas on text — especially for body copy. That’s what InDesign, Quark or even, Illustrator is for.
Your text will not print as clear and sharp in a raster-based program like Photoshop. Stick with vector-based programs for large amounts of copy.
Using rainbow gradients
You know you’ve seen them a million times, and every time they get more jarring to look at. Just say no to rainbow gradients! (Caution: Grip your arm chair before clicking the link to the left!) 
Now that doesn’t mean you should stay clear of gradients all together. I’ve seen plenty of designs and websites as of late using tactful gradients. Try blending the gradients from a lighter shade to a darker shade of the same color, instead of blending 2 or more disconnecting colors.
Assuming K=100 is Black
Many new designers, including myself at one point, thought that setting my K in CMYK to 100 would result in black. This is not the case… instead, it results in a dark grey.
Although you can get away with setting your K to 100 for black text, large areas of black should be set to ‘Rich Black’. Try using C=90 M=60 Y=30 K=100 — it will produce a much richer and noticeable black.
Overusing and abusing filters
I shouldn’t have to go into too much detail with this one, but I remember being obsessed with filters when I first experienced Photoshop. Even though they’re “fun and easy” doesn’t mean they make you look professional and experienced.
Overusing and misusing filters can easily make you look like an amateur.
Creating logos in Photoshop
Though this one can be argued, you should create logos in vector-based programs, like Illustrator, as much as possible.
Vectors are easily scalable and retain consistent clarity no matter how large or small you scale them.
Working under 300dpi in print
Many new users fall into the trap of working in 72 dpi (dots per inch). While this is true for the web, it should not be used when printing. Typically 300 dpi is best for print, but you should always check with your printer.
Also, when working with images that are 72 dpi in print, don’t assume you can just increase the resolution or size of the image and everything will be fixed. The image will appear pixelated and of lower resolution once printed.
Not learning shortcuts
No matter which program you are working in, learning shortcuts is a must. Not only will it increase your workflow by saving valuable time, but many of the tools require additional keys for added functionality.
You can even create your own in Photoshop by selecting ‘Edit > Keyboard Shortcuts…’
Not using layers and folders
Everything in Photoshop revolves around layers. I’ve seen many new Photoshop users neglect using little to no layers, only to regret it later. They make it much easier to edit, move, duplicate, delete, etc.
Also, naming your layers and structuring them into folders is essential, especially when dealing with large PSDs or if you’re a web designer. It will help you navigate around your project, save time and reduce headaches.
‘Desaturate’ to convert images to Black & White
This one is often over looked, even by experienced designers. Choosing Image > Adjustments > Desaturate for converting your image to black and white, often produces a flat, “lifeless” photograph.
Try converting by choosing ‘Image > Adjustments > Channel Mixer’. Check off ‘Monochrome’ and then adjusting the Red, Green and Blue channel sliders — this produces a much richer image.
Beveled, embossed and drop shadows
Similar to rainbow gradients and abusing filters, beveled and/or embossed text can be labeled as unexperienced. Unless you have a valid reason, stay clear of these or use sparingly.
Drop shadows should also be treated properly and with care. When applying a drop shadow, make certain to pay attention to other lighting in the image. You don’t want drop shadows coming from all directions causing an image to appear unbelievable or fake.
Also, adjusting or toning down drop shadows is important as well. They should be subtle and soft, not dramatic and harsh.
Not taking advantage of guides and grids
You wouldn’t believe how many designers “eye” things up instead of pulling out guides or using the grid in Photoshop. They’re there for a reason… use them.
What are some common mistakes you’ve seen or experienced yourself in Photoshop?
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Great post! I think all of us have fallen victim to at least one of these starting out. The thing that separates the designers from the wannabes is that we learn why we shouldn’t do it and we stop.
I was definitely a K = black guy. Working strictly on the web for a few years, though, I’ve started working in RGB only, which solved the problem for me.
I think the most important thing you touched on here is the importance of naming layers and organizing related elements into folders. If a client comes to you a year after a project is completed and needs updates to something you created, you don’t want to have to guess if you should select “Layer 10 copy” or “Layer 10 copy copy” to find the image that needs to be changed.
Awesome article!
Wow! That’s definitely a great selection of photoshop mistakes
Didn’t know for the “Channel Mixer” tip. Thanks!
Nice list. Bevel and emboss is very ’90s. Rich black tip is very useful, especially for print, something I’ve only really came across lately myself.
Whoa! I’ve been using “Desaturate”… when I shouldn’t have! Good stuff!
Dope list. There’s some great tips here.
Good post! I see all of these FAR FAR too often at the venue where I work… The owner’s kid has a copy of photoshop so he thinks he’s a designer… He’s a great kid, but… rainbow gradient and bevel/emboss doesn’t make band names more legible or better looking…
I’ll admit that I don’t use grids and guidelines enough :\
I think the tips for using folders, naming layers, and using guides/grids are some things that greatly increased my productivity in PS when I first discovered them, as well as using shortcuts. If you have everything else under control, then these are the things newbies should definately take away from this article. Nice write up!
Ahhh, memories of my youth… Discovering the grid and guides opened up a whole new world of accuracy for me
Hey, great post & useful tips!
I agree with Aaron, that we have all “fallen victim” to some of these in the past, but that is one of the things that make designers better. Live and learn right?
This is a great post. I agree with the previous comment.
i think that rainbow gradient is going to give me nightmares. thanks
I definitely agree with all of these. It’s funny that you mention to use the Pen tool for extraction of images — because I still find myself (when in a hurry) using the Quick Selection Tool. It’s really easy to use (Quick Selection), but you’re right…. there is nothing that can compete with the Pen tool’s accuracy.
- Mason
Great set of basics that any designer should know. The first thing I always stress to any young designer is to master the pen tool. It’s your best friend in either Photoshop or Illustrator (and now Flash, too.)
Great compilation of basic tips! I agree, very helpful for the beginner photoshop users (and nice reminders for the rest of us!)
I know when Im in a hurry I get lazy with the layers which definitely makes for more of a headache….If only I’d learn….. 
Thanks!
Great collection of tips! I’ve been using desaturate instead of the channel mixer. I don’t stop there, I make other adjustments too but I’m assuming switching to the channel mixer will cut out some of those steps.
Excellent article, good for not only beginners but a subtle reminder for the experienced user, too. We all have those moments.
Hmm, I admit to falling victim to a few of these effects, lol. Thanks for the tips, I’m still learning how to design effectively.
Great article!
Great list as usual!
- Cal
Wow, what a fantastic read through. Thanks for sharing! Looking at those rainbow gradients, drop shadows and bevel and emboss text makes me cringe. Why to newbies love that stuff?
Jesus, that Rainbow Gradients site literally hurts! My poor eyes…
Great post!! The desaturate tip is a killer. Thanks for sharing!!
Ahmed,
Yes, the channel mixer is a great solution to changing a color photograph to black and white. You get a much better tonal range.
Lee,
When I first started out in print design, I was having similar problems… I was not only getting light greys when only using k=100, but when I tried other variations of rich black, I was getting reddish and blueish blacks depending on if the “black” hand more ‘R’ or ‘B’ in it. The above numbers works really well for a good solid black.
Liz,
Better watch out or the rainbow gradients might get you while your sleeping!
Mason,
Nothing beats the pen tool and paths in my opinion. The amount of control you get is something that no other tool can provide you.
Paul,
Keep working at it and you will see much improvement in your work. Practice makes perfect. Stay on top of the design community and you will take away so much from it. Thanks for the comment.
Andrew,
In my opinion, new users/designers are prone to the above “mistakes” because they are exploring the programs for the first time. They are usually the tools that stand out and are typically easy to use.
Rob,
Love that site, right? haha Thanks for stopping by. How’s everything been with you?
Great post!
Aaaah! how can you do that to me!
that was a horror movie [for designers]
*imagine a client showing you that image and asking you to add it as a background as it would give a really cool effect*
Brilliant Post! Learned and Taught!
I have made quite a few of the mistakes mentioned, when I first started all of my text had some kind emboss, bevel or drop shadow. My biggest mistake now would be using photoshop to create logos, body copy and almost everything. This is probably because Photoshop is the only program I want to open in my master suite, I know I must learn Illustrator and InDesign just haven’t given myself that push..Thank You, Good Post!
Perfect post, good subject! Is always good to have someone refreshing our memory and saying what we shouldn’t be doing right now, after years of Photoshop! I’m happy to know that some of this mistakes belong to the past for me but still like this, I could include myself in the “lasso tool” the most part of the time… I’ll try to improve myself!! Is a promisse for 2009!
Thanks and keep going!
Good points,
“…Overusing and abusing filters…”
I think this is one of the things that ‘impress’ design illiterate clients!
The more difficult it is to design, the more the client thinks it’s a good design.
Those clients judge design on aesthetics + the complexity of the design rather than it’s functionality.
*Hope this makes sense
Great post, should start using guides an grids more
excellent article.. will be watching for these mistakes from now on. thxs
I think a lot of these are obvious. Useless post is useless, as though it was made to abuse stumble and/or digg.
Good post thanks..
I guess we all have been into those mistakes sometime
Very excellent list for new Photoshopper’s. I would add that in addition to using the pen tool for removing backgrounds, masks and brushes can also be used, and in some cases I find the workflow faster and the results better, as you can feather where needed based on the particular brush used.
great list. Very useful for someone like myself who has been learning design on the hoof.
like all the tips. I would like to say that the rich black formula is great for pc and web, but in actual print work, this causes a range of over 250% ink coverage in the rich black areas. It would be better for the print product to have some reduction in the cmy values in order to allow the offset printing press to lay down the colors with the least bit of marking opertunities during the printing process. Also for you print designers out there, for the best and safest gloss-dull combo effect, go with a spot dull varnish and then an overall gloss aqueous coating. It works GREAT!
u could totally do a post like this for Illustrator now.
like.. people who use illustrator for multi-page layouts (WTF!?)
Fantastic Article. I remember doing these as a new designer.
Hehe, good pointers for people just starting photoshop. One small thing that I do want to warn about though: don’t always rely on guides. They usually make your life much easier, but remember, a numerically-perfect alignment doesn’t always equal a perfect-looking, natural alignment.
I think the overuse of Lens Flare should be a mistake all of its own!
Good list but I don’t agree on the first 2 points :
Concerning the pen tool, you say the eraser shouldn’t be used. I disagree on that. The pen tool is fantastic, but I often prefer the eraser wich can be configured precisely and get the job done better than with the pen. This is specially true on blured objects (in the background) or hairs… Pen tool is preffered on sharp and on focus objects.
Concerning the body copy, photoshop files can be saved as PDF while conserving all vectors in an image (this is also true for imported vectors files, like an Illustrator Logo). Most modern RIPs or printers, will process that info as vectors. But it remains true that photoshop is not the best software for dealing with body copy
Really great post, I think many people will find this information very useful and I hope it really gets shared and directed to the right people. I will certainly send the link to some people I know.
I think the biggest mistake people make is not actually learning the right tools from the beginning. It does take a lot of time and effort, but if you really want to be successful and create an impact with your design then it is important to learn, don’t make basic mistakes (perfect examples in this post) and just keep moving forward.
The Pro Designer
nice post!
totally agree with most of the points, but also am guilty of the others
A great post. The channel mixer info was a pearl!
PS CS3 has a black and white adjustment option that should do the same trick as the Channel Mixer in CS2.
72 dpi images for the web is a myth. Try creating creating a 300 dpi and 72 dpi image with the same pixel dimensions. They’ll have the same file size and look the same. In fact, there are plenty of high-dpi images on flickr. If you have a high dpi image, retain it. It helps in the printing of web pages.
I can’t really think of a situation where one needs to specify rich black in PS. For shapes and text, those should be done in Illustrator right? For images, rich black might not be the most accurate black. Anyway it’s always better to communicate with the printer how you want the blacks to be, because different printers have different ways of achieving deep blacks. If I need the black to be really BLACK, I’ll probably silkscreen or foil-stamp.
I couldn’t agree more with using layers, especially when the PSD is going to be used by more than one person.
Make sure you use K%100 for fine black text, if you use C=90 M=60 Y=30 K=100 your printer will probably knife you in the face.
Thanks for the Channel Mixer advice
The number of PSD files I’ve come to from a previous designer where the groups/layers aren’t labeled is a huge mistake.
Also the number of times I’ve come to a layer which has been rastorized which was originally a vector is quite annoying too. Make backups / Drag and drop all layers and avoid merging all where possible. Folders will make your work clear and manageable even if it does take you a bit of extra time to apply these extra steps.
As in the article, learning the shortcut keys will make it super easy to implement them into your workflow!
Great list but I disagree with logos, you should make them in a vector program and then import to photoshop to do touches. But you can of course just create them in photoshop for the most part - not all logos involve graphic images, some may just be manipulation of text.
Holy sh#t that is awesome. I’ve been using Photoshop since Photoshop 3 (no, not CS3) and the ‘desaturate tip’ really was an eyeopener. Thanks for that.
What I don’t get is why I should use the pen-tool for selections. Maybe it’s because I didn’t try it yet, but still I’ve got the idea that the lasso tool gives me the precision I sometimes want. But after reading that tip I kinda felt like a retard, eventhough I think it’s a great tool
I have to second guess your recommendation for 300 ppi. Many printers won’t print any better above 150 ppi or so. I have a couple several thousand dollar high end epsons and they don’t print any better at 300. Run a test on yours to find out what is best for you.
The reason you may want the lowest resolution with the best print quality is the toll it takes on your computer, especially your RAM. 300 ppi is not twice as much as 150 ppi, it’s FOUR times as much.
That said, I realize 90% of the world is trying to print 72 ppi images from the web wondering why they look terrible.
grids are essentially useless to anyone but anal retentive designers. the grid nazis who think it’s a mortal sin to “eye it” should get off their lofty pedestal of self righteousness and get into something like accounting. For the record, variety and asymmetry don’t kill people; people kill people.
Here’s my tip for the “Setting Body Copy” section: if you do add body copy in Photoshop, you can retain its sharpness by exporting your image as an Photoshop EPS, and checking the “Include Vector Data” box. To keep the file size to a minimum, I recommend leaving your text layer(s) on top, and flattening everything else underneath before exporting. Note: this also works with vector layers in Photoshop, but not with placed vector Smart Objects from Illustrator.
On a separate note, the CMYK mix for rich black given in the article, 90/60/30/100, is actually a deep blue. A more neutral rich black, with less ink coverage, is 40/30/30/100.
How about filters and lens flare? Yuck!
I’ve been doing soft drop shadows in Photoshop since before it was a built-in effect, and even before Photoshop had layers (using Channel Operations — not so fun). Once it became a built-in effect, though, and everyone started using and abusing it, I started to make my own shadows more complex and realistic, by subtly adding multiple cast shadows of different sizes, and using Motion blur instead of Gaussian blur.
Here’s the method I use to create a “live” drop shadow that is far more flexible than the built-in drop shadow generator: Take the layer that you want to shadow and turn it into a Smart Object. Then, duplicate the Smart Object, and apply the live effect “Color Overlay…” to make your layer black (or whatever color you want your shadow to be). Then, set the layer to Multiply, reduce the opacity, and apply whatever kind of blur effect suits your needs.
Now, any changes to your original Smart Object layer will update in its shadow layer as well, but as an entirely separate object that can be scaled independently, or given multiple filters (like adding Gaussian blur on top of Motion blur). Sometimes I like to duplicate the shadow layer, scale it up a little, lessen the opacity, and give it a higher blur value. Overlaying this second shadow layer on top of the first usually gives the shadowing more realism than just using a single layer.
Great tips, but I think your Rich Black formula is a little strong for four-color printing. If you add up the four components, you get 280% ink coverage, which is the absolute maximum for US SWOP printing (Euroscale can go up to 330%, but even still, that’s one DENSE black). A black that rich is going to adversely affect the other colors that are printed around it on a CMYK press, requiring a lot of adjustments on-press to get things right.
Personally, I’ve never gone wrong with a straight C40 K100 rich black - and that’s with over 15 years of print design experience.
great post!!!
Glenn, you beat me to the punch on the rich black comment . I do pre-press for a living — we have our own formula for rich black that’s best suited to our presses, but sometimes we send jobs out to be printed on some third party presses, and they use different rich black formulas. The safest bet would be that if you’re designing for print, check with your printer to see if they have a specific rich black formula they like to use.
What you defined here mister, is the web design of 2.0
60/40/40/100 is better
Great post…good things for PS users and designers in general to learn. Only one thing I think should be mentioned:
If you use rich black but reverse text with a thin font (like Helvetica Neue Light), you run the risk of having the printer be slightly off in registration which would result in some dots flowing into your text. Does that make sense? I used to work for a newspaper years ago and when we’d reverse the text in a black box that was CMYK, we’d often get docked by quality checks because there would be some magenta dots in the area that should be white due to a minor mis-registration on the page.
well, I can agree with most of your points, but I have to argue with the pen tool always being the correct method of extraction. It really depends on what you’re working with. I find that in most cases where there are complex shapes on a busy background, you’re probably right. There’s no shame in using the quick select, however, if you’re trying to remove simple shapes from solid color backgrounds. You could also use the extract filter or the background eraser in moderation, as I find that trying to use the pen tool to cut out hair can be tedious and doesn’t always give the best result. My point is - Photoshop has several tools for a reason, even the rainbow gradient has its place: http://psdtuts.com/tutorials-effects/quickly-build-a-abstract-background-of-colored-bars/
Great advice. One clarification is that if you are using rich black on newsprint, the results could be bad. Newsprint is printed on web fed presses and most often has a some shift resulting in occasional misregistration. Also, the cmyk ink saturation should be around 240%. It is much better to stick with just K in this case.
Like nate, I have to agree. I know professional graphic designers that were called up by famous people to make graphic works for them, and they taught me not to rely on one tool. They told me to use magic wand, lasso, and pen tool, all together.
Also, I don’t think rainbow gradient is all that bad. It just depends how you use it, what you use it for, etc.
Lastly, drop shadows and beveled and embossed isn’t all that bad, as long as people use it correctly. beveling and embossed is usually used to make a font look more realistic/3-D, and it’s true, but if you make it look like the way the example is, of course it’s bad. I’ve seen movie posters with these “mistakes”, but to a lot of people, it actually was a really good poster.
wow, great list esp for drop shadows, i do this technique for 2 years beffore, and it’s always i used,,, so fun when i know…it’s so mistakes
I’m going to have to partially disagree about the pen tool. Like a couple people already said, it doesn’t work very well with soft objects. I only use it for things with nice, definable edges, and save the hair and furry and fuzzy stuff for the extract tool or something else. Unless you don’t really care how much background you take with you when you select with the pen. Then it doesn’t really matter.
Wow - I have to say this article (and the rest of the blog, for that matter) was really helpful. Nice work!
Great read! Especially that part about gradients… I came across a site that uses rainbow gradients and I was like: “There are people who still do this?”
David
While I agree with most of the points, I’ll have to take exception with two. Desaturate + Levels works better depending on the image. Even in the sample, you lost a lot of detail in the image on the left, while you can keep the detail and bring some punch back with Levels. I also disagree with the 300dpi rule. 150dpi at 100% will produce quality printed results while keeping file sizes much more manageable. I hate few things more than getting an Illustrator file with tons of huge linked images that won’t even RIP or process on the equipment printing it. i end up having to resample all the PSD files and update links accordingly. Where do you guys get the hardware to handle these files? (Or do you use low-res files for the work and only send hi-res images when it goes to print, therefore bypassing the dreaded wait times?)
This is a very worthy article… but why is it that 99% of all top 10 list are for total NOOBS! Its getting old… my next blog will be Top 10 ways to not post a Top 10 list… lets not forget 50 great resources for learning things you already know.
So true. I do all of my logos under a vector-based software
HI,
My printer says to not go beyond 200 percent of color total.
Your advice of: Try using C=90 M=60 Y=30 K=100 would result in a total of 280 percent (out of 400 possible)
What that does is, it is making the printed area too wet and that can cause a number of problems of which the least is, that it will take a long time to dry.
He advices to use K=100, C=50 and M=50. No yellow since it doesn’t help in any way in making the black darker and adds only moisture.
OMG my boss who just hired me at my university as the graphic designer never used guides before and just EYED things together. It blew me away at the things he tried to do! I’ll keep the K =/= Black and the monochrome mix thing in mind tho… and… the PEN TOOL for selections??? hmmmmmm I’ll have to look into that one… (new to pen still… don’t like it :P)
A fantastic post & I agree with everything, most of all your point about “Assuming K=100 is Black”. It is not. The 300dpi / 72dpi, how often clients have submitted an image for A4 sized magazine article that looks like it has been captured on an old camera phone, thinking it will be fine.
Thank you for sharing!
Alex | Zen Elements
This post RULES!!!
Good job, really.
I have an eye doctor’s appointment followed by an appointment with a shrink to help me recover from the rainbow gradients! Else a great post.
Thanks for this! I knew 11 of these already, but I shamefully admit that I was ‘Desaturating’ to convert images to Black & White!!! I had no idea there was a better way, so thanks!!
Really interesting, but I think Pen tool is the worst tool in order to make Selections. I think you really don’t know the power of Tools like Eraser or others.
Note:I know, perfectly, how to use the Pen tool.
I’m gonna have to disagree with you on the pen tool one; it isn’t NECESSARILY the best for extraction. I’ve always found quickmasking to be a great tool, partiularly for pulling out things with an anti-aliased edge, though pen tool works wonders for perfectly clean edges. another thing newbies don’t often take advantage of is the channels and selection options(Color Range, color replacement, expansions, contractions, feathers). And AMEN on the filter over-use. One of the most painful things to my eyes is a person with inverted color or a lens flare stuck in behind them.
Sweet Tips….just Sweet
Bevel and emboss can be a great tool, as long as you NEVER use default settings…I have gotten some really nice effects by playing around and adjusting the gloss contour, colors, etc…. Drop shadow is fine to use! Great post! Im going to show this to all my wannabe friends who think anyone can do my job…thanks
The desaturate thing is great!
And indeed, shadow, bevel etc should be used carefully, to serve your work and not to… you know what it can do.
To follow up on the Channel Mixer tip: when adjusting the Red/Green/Blue sliders, a rule of thumb which I use is to make sure the numerical values add up to (approximately) 100.
This is a great list, Brian. I agree with Ash that relying on Lens flare is also a Photoshop mistake.
Another mistake which I would add is to create your artwork at too small an image size and/or resolution: instead you should start large then resize down if necessary. If you try to resize up you’ll either get pixelation (the image turns into tiny squares) or interpolation (a loss of the sharp detail/clarity of the image).
Great post…. Thank god…. I’m over most of these mistakes
Thought you should know your navigation isn’t showing up right in Firefox 2. There’s no support for display: inline-block there. You can use -moz-inline-box or just float the elements left.
I know, I know, people should upgrade.
very good and useful article, especially for me too as photoshop geek
Tracked back to from here: http://www.presidiacreative.com/web-picks-8/
This is a very thoughtful and useful article and I agree with one of the other posters: it would be great if you could create a similar article for Illustrator.
I’ve fallen victim to more than a few of these. ^^;
Good tip on the black and monochrome. This is really useful. (:
Delilah,
Glad ypu enjoyed the article and thanks for the comment
muy bueno je creo que cometo muvchos de estos errores bueno que ya lo se
As a PShop newbie, these (and some comments) are invaluable. Thanks.
I think black and white adjustment layer is better than channel mixer or desaturate
interesting to note that I seem to come across quite a few people who will use layers in Photoshop, but won’t use layers in Illustrator – why not!!??
Kija,
I think the reasoning might be that you are able to select different objects easier in Illustrator than you are in Photoshop. While I admit not using layers like I do in Photoshop, the primary reason for using layers in Illustrator is for organization purposes.
Thank you much. I’ve been using PS for years and I still do some stuff the old fashioned way. I never could get the hang of the pen tool, I always was a fan of the magnetic lasso for cutting out with satisfactory, but not astounding results. I suppose I will have to work with the pen tool more.
No me parecen tan malo los supuestos problemas que mencionan… en realidad varios de ellos los soluciona el CS3 con los objetos inteligentes y un pequeño conocimiento de color soluciona el negro real C100% M100% Y100% K100%… en fin, hay cosas más importantes que discutir con el mejor programa de retoque fotográfico el PhotoShop…
Saludos desde Chile !!!
Thanks for this! I’ve been using Photoshop for years, and have kept the old habits I learned during formal training. Not growing with the app is another common mistake.
Really good list - I disagree on the logo’s though - there is no argument really: a bitmapped logo is of no use to anyone
I feel the greatest problem if this new generation is kids shooting themselves in the foot and ruining good-paying work for the rest of us by dumbing-down the value of what we do by not knowing even the most BASIC of proper grammar.
STOP using Photoshop (noun) as a VERB you idiots.
A close second is the invention of the most retarded title for something that does not exist: “Web 2.0″??? WTF is that REALLY?
Since 97′ the ONLY thing that has changed as far as the internet itself is SPEED.
PERIOD, and of story.
Stop acting like children and have some self respect, otherwise I’ll have to continue thanking you for the work you keep throwing our way because you can’t find the “make it cool” button.
I definitely did not realize that K=100 was not black. This is a great post
not the best that I have seen, or at all. what is the point of this web??
Could you please elevate “drop shadows” to it’s own listing as #1? I would like to show this list to my boss
The shortcut tip is great and could use a post of it’s own. I’ve made a point of learning a new shortcut every day. Even if I forget a few, eventually they stick in my noodle. I’m like a Photoshop Ninja now. Ctrl-Shift-Yeeeeaaaaahhhhh!
Haha, I’ve done some of those mistakes there in my early days. Photoshop’s features just really excite beginners. XD
Very good…
muy buenos ejemplos,
a veces es mejor enseñar ” que no hacer ”
en vez de como hacerlo….
Ghoyho
Hooray! The fact I knew all of these/practice them makes me feel good
Great list, and a good reminder to be careful of these things!
Something also worth mentioning is how easy it is to overlook the alignment buttons. I used to eye up everything for the first few years I used Photoshop until I discovered the buttons in InDesign.
I think I will stubbornly continue to use the polygonal lasso tool for cropping, however. At least until I can figure out how to get the pen tool to flow into a straight line right after making a curve without making some sort of crazy loop first…
This post made it so much easier to explain to my coworkers why photoshop is not for text
Your getting confused between DPI and PPI =)
All I have to say is B-R-A-V-O and well said. I’m just laughing as I read this because you are 100% on the nose with everything you said. This is my first time on here and you can assure, I will definitely be back for more.
Thank you so much for the tip on CMYK black! I’ve been wondering about that for the past two weeks or so.
And the Rainbow Gradient site….Man…It made my flu 10x worse!
This is da shizzle m8. Adding to favorites and read it a couple more times
Cheers.
Great tips collection, thx
I think the most valuable thing I was told starting out was that if ti looks like you made it in Photoshop, you failed. Drop shadows/bevels etc. are a giveaway. Stay away from filters and layer effects if you can.
The other difference between a rookie and a pro is non-destructive editing. No original source/picture/element should be altered. One should always be able to go back, no matter how far into a piece, and be able to revert to the original element.
Great post!
Great article! several good tips for both professional and novice designers. By the way do you mind if I translate it to spanish of course always sending the source back to you. Thanks.
Celso,
Thank problem at all on the translation. Just be sure to link back. Thanks
“Just say no to rainbow gradients! (Caution: Grip your arm chair before clicking the link to the left!)”
The caution should’ve come before the link! I’M BLIND! x_x Great post though!
Yep. Boilerplate is great.
100 K=Black Noticed that black wasn’t black a while ago and although I haven’t used your configuration on the CMYK - I’ve come close to it. Having a rich black on some copy is just a must.
Great article - I need to learn more shortcut keys.
Great article, really hit the nail on the head with this one. I see a lot of this even in magazine ads lately for some reason.
Thankyou!
Nice one!
yup.. guilty of doin’ quite a few of them mistakes
Now that my ignorance has been shattered, i’ll endeavor to improve on me newbie skills! -dee-
People who set type in Photoshop should be shot.
the gradient disclaimer should be bolded lol
Another one is using levels when you should be using Curves. You should almost never use levels on a photograph. Without getting too deep into why you are losing information in levels. Also not using and adjustment layer is really bad practice. Over use (Or use at all) of Gaussian blur can really be annoying too! Good list though:)
*Raises hands in defeat* Alright, I admit it, I’m a bevel and emboss whore.
And Desaturate, hehe. I’m not a professional at this, but i’m glad that i’v learned some of these in my time alone with Photoshop (aka, not at college or from others).
Good list, though.
thanks for a great article, I am a begginer in photoshop, question, is it worth to use a graphic tablet with photoshop?
merci!
man…this was some helpful info and I do agree that most, if not all of us has been a “victim” of these mistakes…including myself. I’ve never really used the pen tool for extraction because honestly, I’ve never toyed with it. I went to use other methods of extraction, but reading about these common mistakes is making me more aware to explore PS and discover what other wonders PS can do. The K info along with the vector and grid info was helpful too. Always striving for the best! Thx again!
It seems everyone who has their own value they like to use for rich black.
If you’ve been using one printer and both you and the printer are happy are happy then keep on using that value. If you are going to a new printer however, its ALWAYS best to ASK THEM what values to use for black. Having been in both pre-press, print operation and graphic design myself, i can tell you all printers are different and you really should seek the prepress or print operator advice.
After that mouthful if the pre-press is any good they’ll change it to what they want anyway!
Another way to piss of your printer is to include every registration mark under the sun!
A big agreement on the overuse of the style pallet (and lens flares). And again with resolution of files you should always check with the printer.
Good job on the article.
Even the best of us have been guilty of doing these at one time or another.
After all, what fashionable and trendy today is usually vomit worthy tomorrow!
Aww man years ago I was victim to so many of these, now they make me cringe. I think the most cringe worthy photoshop filter is lens flare… gads… uhh.
Very nice!
Good info. Back in my early Photoshop days I used to LOVE lens flare. Now I’ve realized the folly of my ways. There’s rarely a good use for it!
wow this is just the best guide to starters that would be using photoshop for the first time. nice post
It should be PPI not DPI! That’s the biggest mistake.
Nice post. As a photographer I would say the the most pervasive mistake I see with photoshop is using it to try and make dull, uninspired photography and images interesting.
Due to its brilliance the software has been very susceptible to creating fads. Who can forget the proliferation of BW images of brides with color bouquets from just a few years ago.
Too often the latest and greatest technique becomes a substitute for good lighting, observant seeing, moments and expression. Pretty soon the coolest new technique becomes yesterday’s parachute pants.
Thanks for the great post! Especially for your tip about desaturating photos. I use to desaturate the image then go adjust the curves and levels to give it more life, but your way sounds so much easier. Thanks!
LOL at the lens flare comments… yes indeed, steer clear!
I too have to comment on the rich black. While you are fine for web work, a good combo for print is 65/25/25/100. All three printers I use prefer this formula for rich black.
A note on rich black. If you are designing for print check with your printer. I have worked in newspapers for 5yrs and rich black just kills us. So I repeat CHECK WITH YOUR PRINTER before using rich black.
I don’t like your build of Rich Black. Technically it’s accurate. But if you want to reverse text out of a build like that it’s going to cause problems on the press, since you specified cmyk i can assume it’s for litho print.
Usually 50% cyan and 100% black is enough to give a rich black, and this leads to better chance of registration (printing cmyk on top of each other).
Commonly you wouldn’t go over 200% when making a build of black, that is 90, 60. 30, 100 that you say, which adds up to 280%. It could be far too heavy for the paper you’re printing on, increasing drying times etc.
Usually If I needed to build a rich black I look at the context. If it’s to knock text out of the black I’d use 50% and up of Cyan in the build of Black. This increases chances of registration.
If it’s to produce a black that blocks out part of an image I’d go with 30, 30, 30, 100 and that gives 190%.
It may depend if I want a warm or cool black, as 50 and 100 would give a cool black, and 60M and 60Y and 100K would give a warm black.
Then it also depends if I want to blend a black in a page layout to a photograph with a black background. In which case I would get a reading of the values of CMYK in the black from the photograph and build a swatch based on that.
If you need to knock text out of it or any black that you are creating, it’s best to talk to your printers and ask them what their ink limit is on their press (relates to the 200% rule I go by). But always consult your printer regarding making a rich black.
Guilty as charged. Thanks!
Great post. I admit, I did not read every post here, so I apologize in advance if I am repeating something someone else suggested. I also apologize for the length and don’t mean to hijack this discussion.
As for extractions, my rule of thumb is to use whatever method works best based on the image. Images with a solid background often do very well using the background eraser tool or quick selection tool. In that instance, you might also consider using channels to create a mask or consider using the extract tool (CTRL+ALT X on PC I think), which is great for hair or furry/fuzzy/feathery objects.
I once used the pen tool on a daily basis, but a buddy of mine turned me onto the polygonal lasso tool. Here’s how it’s done: Zoom in very, very close (I’m talking 800%-1600%). You’ll notice the fringe of pixels along the edge of the image to be extracted. Using the polygonal lasso tool, split the difference in those pixels (or sometimes err on clicking inside the fringe altogether) and click along the edge of the image. This eliminates that black or dark edge that sometimes shows up on your extractions, which results in many folks feathering the edge to blur this out.
The polygonal lasso tool is not like the pen tool, in which you hold down the mouse to create a bezier curve point. With the polygonal lasso tool you are clicking and creating a series of little lines. When you zoom out, it all looks fine. As you click your tracing path, if you make a mistake, just press delete and keep going. Once your path is traced, go to Select –> Save Selection, then save it as you would any other path. It takes practice, but I believe the results are well worth it.
I’m sure you could use the pen tool here as well. I’ve grown to be more comfortable with this lasso tool. The point is to eliminate the fringe pixels without having to contract or feather the extraction. Hope all of this makes sense. Email me if it doesn’t. I’ll be happy to explain in greater detail.
Eugene, I think you are spot on regarding rich black.
Awesome.. thanks a lot for this!
Nice list you have here, and I agree with all your points. Theres a certain respect that people must have for type, and glyphs of any kind. Respect your letterforms, they are our friends! Unless your reasoning is damn good, its such a bastardization to outline or bevel/emboss your type. Typefaces are finely crafted to look the way they do, dont destroy that in an attempt to somehow build hierarchy or prominence, there are much more effective solutions.
On that same note, dont you dare stretch them either!